Without previous alpine climbing experience, climb this as a four-day program with two skills days and two days for the ascent. A crowd-free Sierra classic … In his personal climbing, Matt has focused on multi pitch and alpine climbing. This route is an exceptional outing in Glacier Gorge and is a must for any avid climber. This complete adventure will take most of the day and all of your hard work will pay off at the summit, dwarfed only by Longs Peak looming in the east, the complete exposure and direct line of sight down at all you’ve accomplished makes this one of my personal favorites in all of the Rockies! Climbing West Gulley WI3 Grade III in Rocky Mountain National Park produced by Adam Reke. RMNP Alpine Routes Rocky Mountain National Park has been a testing ground for alpinism and exploration since the late 19th Century and these steep sided peaks hold the majority of technical mountain climbing in Colorado. The Kiener’s Route finds its way up this imposing face via an incredible yet moderate line. From about 1916 into the late 1920's, Colorado was home to the hardest rock climbs in the country. This will require a minimum of two days of skills in the surrounding Estes Park Valley (or equivalent experience) and two days to climb the route. Mt. The Best Four Days in Rocky is an itinerary intended for the climber who is interested in taking the time needed to check out … The Colorado College professor Albert Ellingwood (a Rhodes Scholar who had climbed in England's Lake District) and Eleanor Davis were probably the first people to practice belayed climbing in the United States. tab for more information on our Rocky Mountain NP offerings. This program offers a spectacular adventure over a 3 day itinerary with one day of skills (or equivalent experience), one day to hike into our camp at Ypsilon Lake, and one day to climb our route/return to the trailhead. With a rich history of climbing and mountaineering, the park offers iconic alpine peaks to summit such as the face of Longs Peak, “The Diamond.” From pristine boulders to high peaks, … From long scrambling routes to classic alpine rock and ice climbs and front-country cragging, the park offers everything a climber could want. Ypsilon Mountain, Blitzen Ridge (III, 5.4)  Blitzen Ridge is a long and classic ridge route with magnificent exposure. Pricing is ratio based per person per day. The Petit Grepon, named after a mountain in the French Alps overlooking Chamonix, is in a beautiful setting overlooking Sky Pond and surrounded by a cirque of rocky spires. 5 pitches of moderate climbing lead adventurers up this pointy “tooth” where panoramic summit views await. 633 S Broadway Unit A Boulder, CO 80305. All this said, the climbs are magnificent and unforgettable. *We have a limited use technical guide permit for Rocky Mountain National Park, so trips are limited. You might feel like you’re ascending a castle’s tower, as the route gets ever steeper and narrower through 8 pitches of high quality climbing. As climbers near the top, the 5.10a crux involves an intriguing roof slot several hundred feet above the valley floor that’s both exciting and beautiful. Day two will be our summit day, starting at roughly 3 or 4 am to provide ample climbing time and to avoid thunderstorms. (2 days, minimum). Notchtop, Spiral Route (II, 5.4)  The Spiral Route on Notchtop provides climbers with a striking line that literally “spirals” around the entire mountain. The climbing options abound for all abilities. This 5-star route will require two days of skills and two days to climb the route, making for an excellent long weekend or short week. Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) offers climbers an astonishing variety of routes, ranging from beginner-friendly cragging to alpine rock-climbs and mixed climbs on a grand scale. Closer to Denver, the Boulder Rock Climbing scene saw major technical advances at the hands of legendary hardmen like Layton Kor and Pat Ament during the golden age of American rock climbing in the early 1960s. This video showcases 11 of their proudest sends V12-V14. Meeker is one of the most picturesque and striking features in the park, and this 4-5 pitch route ascends directly up the arete. But a massive rockfall in the late 1990's destroyed the lower part of the route, and it is now much less popular than in the past. Sharkstooth, Northeast Ridge (III, 5.6)  The Northeast Ridge of Shark’s Tooth is a breathtaking objective with stellar climbing and exciting exposure. The team was on the move for 36 hours and covered roughly 20k feet of vertical, 35 miles, and 65 pitches over 11 classic climbing routes. Some of the best known are listed here. The second part expands on the knowledge presented in the first part and provides climbers with the skills and techniques to lead their own alpine rock routes. The Casual Route (IV, 5.10a) Nominally a grade IV, this spectacular eight-pitch climb requires a considerable approach and a bivouac either below the lower East Face or on the Broadway ledge, which breaks the face horizontally and forms the base of the Diamond. Whether it is a pure rock climb or a combination of the 3 disciplines (rock, snow, ice), for climbers there is no better way to practice our craft than in the alpine surrounded by high peaks. The most famous scrambling route in the park is undoubtedly Longs Peak's Keyhole Route. If the adventure of Spearhead seems like to much work, hopefully we have inspired a goal, and together, we hope to help you reach new heights! This route is recommended as a two day program, with day one hiking into Glacier Gorge and camping. The Park has a number of options for everyone from the beginner climber to some of the most cutting edge alpine routes in the world. This line is identified with four distinct gendarmes or “ridge towers” known as the four aces, and signifies the beginning of the route’s difficulties. The end of summer and the dawn of a new season are just around the corner. Today, climbers can choose among many options in Rocky Mountain NP, including: See the Pricing & Details tab for more information on our Rocky Mountain NP offerings. At the heart of this valley lies the North Ridge of Spearhead, an excellent moderate ridge climb up a famous formation. Rocky Mountain National Park offers unparalleled alpine climbing objectives, often requiring a very early start with complex navigation made infinitely easier and safer with the use of a guide. Spearhead offers several 5 star routes including Syke's Sickle (5.10a) and The Barb (5.10b). Below is a small sampling of classic climbs: Longs Peak, Kiener’s Route (III, 5.4 Steep Snow, AI 2)  The east face of Longs is an awe-inspiring and intimidating sight. Rocky Mountain National Park is an alpine climbing paradise. In addition, American Alpine Institute offers a standardized rock climbing curriculum designed to help climbers progress from beginner to intermediate to expert level, while giving them the skills to climb independently if they so desire. Climbing has been a popular activity in and around the area known today as Rocky Mountain National Park since the 1800's. With a shorter approach than many other alpine routes, this makes for an excellent weekend outing consisting of one day of skills and a summit day. Zach Lovell, With previous experience, shorter trip lengths can be arranged, American Alpine Institute - Courses, Ascents, Expeditions, Waterfall ice climbing and winter mixed alpine climbing, Ice Climbing and Winter Mountaineering in RMNP page, Ice Climbing & Winter Mountaineering in Rocky Mountain National Park, Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1, Outdoor Rock Climbing - Intensive Introduction, Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership, equal opportunity provider and an authorized permittee, Classic alpine rock climbs on the high summits, like the. More advanced climbers will grapple with sophisticated jamming techniques, learn to place and remove protection in difficult situations, and master route finding in a setting where the next hold may be less than obvious. At 12,630’, Sharkstooth is the highest of the free standing Cathedral Spires. Rocky Mountain National Park crags are truly legendary. Blitzen Ridge, (5.4)Sharkstooth, Northeast Ridge (5.6)The Saber, Kor Route (5.9-)Spearhead, Sykes Sickle, (5.10a)Hallett, Jackson-Johnson, (5.9)Dreamweaver, Mt Meeker (MI 2/3)Dragon’s Tail, Flattop Peak (WI2- / Moderate Snow)North Face, Longs Peak (5.4, WI2- / Moderate Snow). The Diamond is the name given to the upper portion of the East Face of Longs Peak. The second day will be spent enjoying the alpine sunrise and making a rewarding round trip to the summit and back to the car. Alpine cragging at its best, this route can be climbed as a high-end warm-up for an ascent of the Diamond, or to add flavor to an alpine summit climb like Kiener's. The option to do a two-day ascent is also available, camping for one night in the Boulderfield campsite. Other rock climbing courses include: Many climbers pursue hiking and scrambling ascents of highpoints such as Longs Peak, Hallett Peak, Arrowhead, and McHenrys Peak. (2 days, minimum). The first part of this two-part program introduces climbers to the art of alpine rock climbing. In the 1920’s a large cable was installed on this route to assist climbers and became the standard route up Longs for many years (before the cables were removed). Rocky Mountain National Park is a legendary place to visit. Routes are nearly all trad on solid rock. The combination of moderate but consistent climbing, direct access to Mt. I teamed up with Kirk, a climber I had met via a Summit Post posting. Personal equipment such as clothing, boots, personal climbing gear (e.g. Is this the most stacked female bouldering video ever? The wide variety of peaks and granite rock formations in the park provide excellent opportunities for a wide spectrum of climbing including rock, big wall, snow and ice, bouldering and mountaineering. It offers up climbing in every flavor. This route includes a few pitches of 5.4 rock climbing, spectacular scenery, and provides climbers with a quality alpine route without the crowds. We ask that you provide transportation for your guide from the point of rendezvous, and if there are other climbers in your program we encourage you to carpool. Their 1916 and 1925 ascents of Crestone Needle were pioneering rock climbs that set new technical standards in the United States. Meeker's Flying Buttress ascends the entire height of north aspect of the mountain from Mt. With the Mills Glacier hundreds of feet below, the exposure is dramatic. Though overshadowed by its higher, more famous cousins, like Hallett Peak and the Petit Grepon, Lumpy Ridge is the hidden gem of Rocky Mountain NP rock climbing. (AAI also offers these courses in Washington, California, Nevada, and Utah.) Accredited by the AMGA continuously since 1986, longer than any other American guide service. to Dihedrals, large chimneys, comfortable belays, & the exposed Pizza Pan Belay Ledge, there is a reason this was named one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Sculpted by glaciers and the winter freeze-thaw cycle from domes of high-quality granite, "Lumpy" is home to hundreds of rock climbs from beginner to expert. Alpine Climbing Rocky Mountain National Park is a climber’s dream come true, with a lifetime of high quality rock climbing, ice climbing, and general mountaineering in an incredible alpine setting. With a hugely diverse environment it is a climbers paradise featuring towering big walls, alpine rock routes, ice climbing, bouldering and mountaineering. Zach Lovell. Those with previous climbing experience may be eligible to omit the skills day - call for more details.). At 5.8, with sustained technical difficulties by the standards of the day, the climb was considered the hardest in the country until surpassed in 1931 with the first ascent of the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. Rocky Mountain National Park features classic towers such as The Sharksfin and the Petit Grepon, as well as the more stout […] Learn the necessary skills to be a climbing leader on rock, snow, and glaciers. (3-7 days, minimum), Chris charges up lamb's slide with his ice axes in high dagger position. Previous climbing experience is required or arrange for one of our rock skills courses prior to this program. Click the link to see more information about hiking Longs Peak. Highly recommended to climb during the week, due to heavy weekend crowds. Rocky Mountain National Park- Ice Climbing - Martha. Many other scrambling routes are listed on this page in the Alpine Rock & Ice Tab, above. 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